Rabbit Care

Rabbits should be kept asindoorpets. They are social animals and require daily interaction and playtime with their owners. Outdoor living makes them vulnerable to predators, disease, extreme temperatures, and loneliness. A rabbit should never be completely confined to a cage.

Your rabbits' cage should allow for plenty of movement. The size of the cage will depend on the size and number of rabbits. In general, giant breeds (greater than 12 pounds) require a minimum of 30-by-36 inches to 36-by-48 inches, medium breeds (7 to 12 pounds) require 24-by-30 inches to 30-by-36 inches, and smaller breeds can be accommodated by 18-by-24 inches. 

Some sources report that no matter the size of the rabbit, they should be confined to a space no smaller than 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 4 feet tall, or a minimum of 12 square feet. In general, the bigger the cage, the better! 

They should be able to hop at least three to four full hops in each direction and fully stand on their hind legs without touching the top of their cage. Often, commercially available rabbit cages are too small. We recommend getting creative and making your own. 

Solid floor bottoms are preferred over wire mesh bottoms to prevent irritation to your rabbits’ feet. The flooring should be covered with absorbent material. Unscented pelleted or shredded paper bedding, along with fleece material, can be used with care to avoid cedar or pine shavings. Soiled bedding, including their litterbox, should be removed or cleaned daily. Cages should be cleaned at least weekly with soap and water or a dilute bleach solution (1:10 ratio). Always rinse thoroughly. 

Your rabbit should also have a designated exercise area. You can use fencing panels and tie or pin them together, as well as puppy playpens or commercially available exercise pens. Make sure there is non-slip flooring. The height of the panel should be at least 3 to 4 feet, depending on the size and breed of your rabbit. If you are going to let your rabbit roam freely, then you need to bunny-proof their environment (Google bunny-proofing your home for more information). In either case, you should never leave your rabbit unsupervised, especially with other pets in the household. 

Because rabbits are susceptible to heatstroke, environmental temperatures should be kept between 60 to 70° F, and high humidity should be avoided. Keep your rabbits' enclosure in a quiet, dry, well-ventilated area.

Other supplies you'll need to care for your rabbit include a ceramic crock and/or hanging bottle for water, a food dish, a litter pan (one they can sit in), and a hay rack. Since they are prey animals, they need a place to feel secure. They should be provided at least one place to rest or hide. This can be a small cardboard box or a rabbit house available at your local pet store. 

You should provide your rabbit with a variety of toys and chewing materials to provide enrichment. They like things they can chew on, move around, and make noise. Toys your rabbit will love include untreated wooden blocks, branches, baskets, toilet paper rolls, cardboard, balls, cups, keys, baby toys, and so much more. 

Rabbits can commonly be litter box trained, which makes cleaning cages and exercise areas much easier.  

To set up a litter box for a rabbit, choose a corner of their enclosure and place a large, flat pan filled with a layer of rabbit-safe litter (like paper-based bedding), then add a generous amount of fresh hay on top. Avoid using pine or cedar shavings, as they can be harmful to a rabbit's health. Consistently clean the box daily, monitor your rabbit to ensure they are using it properly, and adjust placement if needed.  

Key points to remember: 

• Location: Place the litter box in a corner of your rabbit's enclosure, as rabbits naturally prefer to go to the bathroom in corners.  
• Litter choice: Use rabbit-safe litter, such as paper-based bedding or recycled paper pellets, and avoid pine or cedar shavings, which can be toxic to rabbits.  
• Hay addition: Always add a generous amount of fresh hay to the litter box. Rabbits like to eat while they go to the bathroom.  
• Box size: Choose a litter box that is large enough for your rabbit to comfortably turn around in.  
• Cleaning routine: Clean the litter box daily, remove droppings, and replace the litter as needed.

Rabbit digestive systems are complex. To stay healthy, they need a diet that is nutrient-dense and contains a lot of bulk roughage. 

A healthy rabbit’s diet includes: 

• Hay 
• Green foods 
• Pellets 
• Treats (non-leafy vegetables and fruit) 
• Supplements and vitamins (if required) 
• Water 

If you see your rabbit eating its own droppings, rest assured this is completely normal and very important for your rabbit’s health. 

Hay 

• High-quality grass hay provides the necessary fiber to maintain a healthy GI tract and should comprise the bulk of your rabbit’s diet (approximately 80%). Timothy, meadow, oat, rye, barley, Bermuda, orchard, and prairie grass should be offered “free choice,” meaning it should be available 24 hours a day. 
• Offer your rabbit a variety of types of grasses, but do not give alfalfa or clover hays as these are too rich in protein and calcium. Also, never give your rabbit straw. 
• You can offer your rabbit hay in a hay rack, box, or basket within the cage or exercise area and in their litterbox. Rabbits will usually not eat any hay that has been soiled. You can also provide enrichment by stuffing hay into toilet paper rolls. 

Green Foods 

• Green foods provide additional micronutrients as well as water content. It's best to make sure your rabbit is eating grass hay for two weeks prior to providing greens and to introduce new foods slowly. 
• In general, the darker the green food, the higher its nutritional content. You should offer your rabbit one cup of greens per two pounds of body weight per day or split into multiple feedings. About 75% of what is offered for the fresh diet should be leafy greens. There is a wide array of green foods you can offer, including:  

Safe leafy greens for your rabbit: 

• Arugula 
• Carrot tops 
• Leafy lettuces (red, green, romaine) 
• Turnip greens 
• Dandelion greens 
• Mint 
• Basil 
• Cilantro 
• Watercress 
• Dill  
• Bok choy 

Safe for your rabbit, but give in smaller quantities: 

• Parsley 
• Chard 
• Spinach 
• Beet greens 
• Mustard greens 

Greens to avoid giving your rabbit: 

• Iceberg lettuce 
• Onion greens 

• Make sure they are organic or washed thoroughly to remove any pesticides. Offer a mixture daily (ideally three different types) and change what you offer weekly. Uneaten fresh foods should be removed after 3-4 hours. 

If the rabbit’s stool becomes runny or soft, it could be due to receiving too much liquid from fresh foods. In this case, restrict fresh foods for a day to see if the issue is resolved. 

Pellets 

• Rabbit pellets can be purchased from most pet stores. Make sure to get a pellet that is grass hay-based and not alfalfa and try to use them within 90 days of the manufacturer’s date. Also, try to stay away from pellets that contain seeds, nuts, or corn. 
• Pellets need to be rationed. The number of pellets to feed your rabbit is based on its size, breed, and if there are any medical concerns. On average, feed your rabbit about a quarter cup of pellets for every 4 pounds of weight (dwarfs eat about one-eighth cup daily, 5- to 7-pound rabbits eat a quarter cup daily, 8- to 10-pound rabbits eat a half cup daily, 11- to 15-pound rabbits can eat three-fourths cup daily. 
• Pellets are usually offered in a ceramic bowl because ceramic is heavy enough to prevent being tipped over and can't be chewed like a plastic bowl. 

Treats (other “non-leafy” vegetables and fruit) 

• Part of the fun of owning a rabbit is giving it special treats. Treats are fine in moderation, but too many can easily upset a rabbit’s delicate digestive system and cause weight gain. Feed treats by hand or place them in a separate small treat dish. 
• Vegetables such as carrots, squash, turnips, radishes, bell peppers, potatoes, cauliflower, and broccoli are good options. These can be fed to your rabbit about one tablespoon per 2 pounds of weight per day. 
• Some fruits can also be fed in small amounts and are great for training and bonding with your rabbit. Fruits such as melons, berries, peaches, apples, and pears are okay. Bananas are most often rabbits' favorite and should be fed in moderation. Typically, you can leave the skin on the fruit and feed your rabbit about one teaspoon per 2 pounds of weight per day. 
• Just like with green foods, try to buy organic or wash the vegetables and fruits thoroughly prior to offering them to your rabbit. 
• Be sure to avoid foods that contain high levels of starch and fats and that are in the onion family. 

Rabbits need fresh water daily. It's best to provide water in a ceramic bowl versus a sipper water bottle. Some pet parents will provide both options for their rabbits. Make sure to wash the water container daily. Remember, if your pet is receiving an adequate number of greens, their water intake may be minimal. 

• The rear legs of a rabbit are so strong that if they are not handled appropriately, they can actually break their backs. Learning how to correctly pick up and hold your rabbit is very important. If you need further guidance or assistance on how best to handle your rabbit, please speak with your veterinarian. 
• Start with your rabbit on the floor. Pick up your rabbit by scooping one hand beneath the chest and the other supporting the hind legs and hips. Bring the rabbit against your body and hold the rear end firmly. Rabbits do not like to be suspended in the air, and they will struggle less if they feel secure. 
• Never pick up a rabbit by the ears or scruff. Most rabbits prefer “four on the floor” and will be more comfortable being petted on your lap or the floor. Do not allow small children to pick up your rabbit. 

• Rabbits are most active in the morning and evening and sleep during the day and night. Rabbits need three to five hours minimum of exercise daily outside the cage. They are naturally curious and enjoy opportunities to explore. Start off with a small area of your house, allowing only as much freedom as they can handle. To prevent destruction to your house and protect the rabbit from harm, don't allow them to access electrical cords, houseplants, furniture, woodwork, carpeting, and other items irresistible to chewing.  
• Toys can provide stimulation for a caged rabbit. Offer new toys and rotate toys monthly. Suggested toys include toilet paper tubes, large cardboard tubes they can run through, plastic whiffle balls, and hard plastic cat toys (especially if they rattle). Rabbits also love to dig and burrow, so try stuffing a cardboard box with hay or paper for your rabbit to explore.